How to design a cycle route? This idea circulating has been at the back of my mind for some time, but it’s never quite made it to the front. Until this summer when it unexpectedly became important and zoomed to the top of my to-do list.
How about a circular cycling route starting and finishing from North Yorkshire’s cycling nirvana of Masham? One that takes in some of the area’s best hills and many understated ‘places to go’, and all the while not straying any further than five miles from the centre of Masham?
Somehow this felt much more important than taking down the bird box that’s regularly used by wasps as a nest and certainly way ahead of the need to cut the grass. And weeding the path wasn’t even on the same page…
The sound of silence
So, one bright Sunday in July that I set out to follow a route worked out on Komoot the evening before, when really I should’ve been pulling up weeds. Masham is always lovely, but especially so early on a Sunday morning before the world stirs, there’s a certain serenity about it. The sunlight plays on the stone buildings, sparrows flutter in the dust of the cobbled gutter that surrounds the market place, blackbirds chirp away and there’s no other sound. Just silence.
Going south out of the town and I soon came across the first hill of the day – nothing too challenging and passing by the delightful Hack Fall Wood, designed in the 18th century by William Aislabie. He diverted streams, planted trees and built follies to create what, by the 19th century, was described as one of the most beautiful woods in the country. It still is in the 21st century.
Carrying on to Grewelthorpe, I headed up towards High Bramley. At the top are extensive views towards Ilton Moor and Nidderdale beyond, and looking back you can see the North York Moors and Hambleton Hills in the distant blue haze. Immediately to the right is Roomer Wood, and the Himalayan Gardens & Sculpture Park down in the valley on the left. Another incredible place, especially in the spring when the rhododendrons are in full bloom.
Great estates
After a brisk downhill weaving through the hamlets of Warthermarske and Low Swinton arrived Swinton Park, surely one of the great estates in the area – check out Samuels restaurant or the Bivouac café – then onto Fearby Cross. It was now time for the first test of the day. After crossing a ford, the road swept swiftly up maxing out at a gradient of 16.5% and averaging 6.2% for about 1km. Yet it’s worth the effort with the view at the top stretching out over Wensleydale. Another rapid descent follows, down to the A685 and the perimeter wall of Jervaulx Abbey.
The Abbey ruins are another serene place, a Grade 1 listed building that’s packed with interesting architectural quirks and delights. Its name harks back to the ancient name for Wensleydale, the modern derivation being Yoredale – ‘Jer’ (river Ure, or Yor) and ‘vaulx (vale, or dale).
I wasn’t long on the A685, before turning off and following the road around behind the Abbey, over the river Ure crossing historic Kilgram Bridge, built by Jervaulx monks in the 14th century.
Thornton Steward Reservoir came next, where other early risers were lovingly preparing their vessels for some time on the glistening water. What follows is surely the best named road in the area – No-Man’s Moor Lane, which undulates its way toward Bedale, a thrilling rollercoaster of a ride. Just before reaching Bedale the route takes a right towards Well, passing by Thorp Perrow Arboretum and its fascinating collection of trees and plants. Snape and its castle and picturesque Well are swiftly passed, and eventually onto West Tanfield.
Taking the Mickley
West Tanfield is a good place to stop – the biggest climb of the route is imminent and the village has two pubs and a shop. I scoffed a flapjack before heading back over the Ure and on to the beautiful village of Mickley. Like most villages in the area, the houses are Georgian sandstone and cobble, yet Mickley has turned the prettiness dial up to 11 by having an assortment of trees lining its solitary main street.
Straight out of the village is also straight up for a couple of kilometres through a delightful tree-lined lane. The average gradient is 7.4% but peaks out twice at over 16%. There are much steeper climbs hereabouts, but this one always feels steeper than it is, especially the second ramp, and today was no exception.
The climb was soon over, and views across to the moors and Nidderdale greet you before turning right and back to Grewelthorpe. Passing Hack Fall once more it was then back to Masham, where there’s always the choice of two great cafés, three pubs, two sweet shops or two brewery bars.
So there it was, an itch had been scratched, and I’d created a scenic and occasionally challenging cycle route that fulfilled all the criteria I’d dreamt of. But what to call it? I settled upon Tour de Masham because, although technically and grammatically incorrect, I like the sound of it. I also really like the route, and it’s since become one of my regulars. Not too strenuous, but strenuous enough. Not too far, but far enough. And beauty is a constant companion throughout, showing North Yorkshire at its best.
Local Knowledge
Beginning and finishing in historic Masham’s market square, this 57km (35.4-mile) ride comprises 923m (3,028ft) of climbing. The route currently has 34 Strava segments, with a maximum grade of 16.5%. Most of the roads are very quiet lanes where the main hazards are rabbits, pheasants and deer, and the odd pothole.
Download the route: komoot.com
Refreshments
A detour to the 360 Cycleworx bike shop and café in Bedale is well worth the effort, although it does involve contending with a bit of traffic. Otherwise, it’s the pubs/shop in West Tanfield, or wait until returning to Masham where my favourite is Johnny Baghdad’s café in Masham Market Place.
Getting there
Masham is 15mins drive time from the A1, junctions 50 or 51. The nearest train stations are Northallerton or Thirsk.
Photographs by Clare Nelson
