L’Alpe D’Huez… with a twist in the tale
Is there anything more exciting for a road cyclist than the prospect of climbing L’Alpe D’Huez? It’s iconic, it’s challenging, and it’s a relentlessly steep climb.
For me it’s a ride best tackled on a wet Sunday. So it was that at 6am on an extremely wet winter weekend I ventured to the Alps to tackle this mystical mountain. I’d been watching the forecast in anticipation for the last week, certain that today was going to be the day. For a ride like this you have to get to the start line well prepared: I was ready, and I was here.
The chosen route was a short but challenging 30km, with 1,200m of climbing and a maximum grade of 13.3%. Starting beside the reservoir Lac du Chambon on the Romanche river valley, there’s a fast descent of the Col de Sarenne to start with and the climb up the Alpe kicks in just over halfway into the ride with 14km to go.
The rain was of biblical proportions but that didn’t abate the levels of excitement as I prepared the Bianchi, carefully running through my pre-ride checklist: water – check, flapjack x 2 – check, appropriate clothing – check.
Swinging my leg over the saddle, I clicked in before heading into the fray. Almost immediately the road disappeared into a long alpine tunnel through the hillside, fortunately well lit.
Releasing my inner Tom Pidcock, I was soon zooming through the first 4.5km at speeds approaching 55kph. This is unusual for me because when out on the roads of North Yorkshire it’s unwise to pedal at over 45kph, especially when it’s wet. There are too many wayward sheep, rabbits, pheasants and deer to risk going any faster. Charging through the pretty Mizoen countryside and the charming hamlet of Le Freney D’Osins whilst hurtling down the Col de Sarenne, the thought of Bambi or Shaun the Sheep leaping out from the verge never crosses my mind; it’s head down and full gas.
Briefly I click through the gears with the sudden approach of a short ascent, which at times hits 8%. It’s only for 2km, though, and I’m soon rattling downwards again, Le Garcin and La Rivoire are a blur as the readout hits speeds approaching 65kph, while the view from over the concrete barrier into the valley below is stunning.
At Les Alberges the road flattens out and it’s all a lot less frenetic, still working hard through the almost pancake-like but incredibly scenic 5km at speeds of between 25 and 30kph. Passing a few other hardy people who don’t wave back, there’s time to absorb the vistas. There’s nowhere quite like the Alps – its sheer beauty is beyond compare. It’s even better when the rain is hammering down like today.
I’m getting rather hot, and the Alpe is literally just around the corner at Le Bourg D’Oisans. So I take off a couple of layers and steel myself for what’s to come, glugging some water and demolishing a flapjack. Le Bourg D’Osians is only small, but it leads to the Ecrins National Park to the south west, and Alpe D’huez and the Col de la Croix de Fer to the North. This is ski resort central in the winter, and cycling heaven in the summer.
Swinging over a roundabout and taking the turn onto the D211, signposted towards Huez, the first proper bit of climbing kicks in for 2km, constantly between 11 and 13%. It’s easily doable in itself but it doesn’t end there. It’s followed by what I’ve been waiting for with eager anticipation, what I’m here to do, the 21 switchbacks of L’Alpe D’Huez. It’s time to click up into that final gear that I’ve been saving, and to add something to help the levels of focus. Quickly scrolling through my downloads and selecting “The Best of U2”, Bono is soon providing encouragement and rhythm.
“Where the streets have no name……”
There are famously 21 switchbacks on this road, and they are all numbered, helpfully and encouragingly counting down. They also show the altitude, unhelpfully and discouragingly reminding you how much climbing remains. A nice touch is that they have all been given the names of the 31 winners of the climb in the Tour de France, the first, number 21, is the very first winner Fausto Coppi, and he shares it with “He Who Shall Not Be Named” (despite being stripped of his Grand Tour titles, HWSNBN still has his name on these switchback plaques).
The youngest ever winner is Tom Pidcock, and I’ve calculated that he is number 11, in prestigious company with Laurent Fignon.
Slipping into a steady rate of about 2.0 w/kg, I feel that I could push it a bit harder, but there’s a long way to go and it’s all uphill. The average up ahead is 8%, but the slopes between the switchbacks hit a constant 10 or 11%. It’s long and tough so pacing is vital, especially when it’s the furthest that you’ve ever pedalled upwards in one go. It feels good too, the pace seems to suit each stretch of road between the turns, generally around half a km for each.
“With Or Without You….”
There’s a brief respite in the switchbacks after passing La Garde, but only brief. Looking down there are other riders on the mountain today, apparently at a similar standard as they don’t appear to be gaining, and it’s busy up ahead too. Allegedly over 1,000 riders a day tackle the Alpe in the summer months, an average of 400 a day over the year.
Turns 14 to 11 seem to pass without incident, at the number 11 sign I nod my head in salute to Pidders. Through the haze and sweat dripping in my eyes are glimpses of immense views through the receding forest of trees. Up ahead are buildings, a town, surely I’m not there yet? There are 10 switchbacks to go, have they miss-counted? It’s here that I discover that there is the village of Huez, which is well before the ski resort Alpe D’Huez.
“In The Name Of Love....”
There have been people living in this area for over 4,000 years, with evidence of silver mines littering the alpine slopes. In the 1930s it became a major ski resort and is today the most visited in France, forming part of the Grand Domaine ski area that combines the resorts of Alpe d’Huez, Auris-en-Oisans, Huez-en-Oisans, Oz-en-Oisans, Vaujany and Villard Reculas.
The climb up to the resort was first added to the Tour in 1952 and won by Fausto Coppi. It was, rather surprisingly, the first ever mountain finish in the Tour. Since then it’s been included 30 further times.
Its nickname is The Dutch Mountain, because there have been so many winners from, ironically, the flattest country in Europe. Every time it hits the Tour itinerary, upwards of 250,000 spectators precariously line the road. One year it was reported that 400,000 people squashed onto the thin ribbon of grass either side of the road, making the ride to the summit a claustrophobic human wall for the riders to negotiate for much of the last 8km. Sadly that year in the melee one poor soul fell unnoticed to his death into the valley below. He was only discovered the following day in the litter clear up operation.
“Elevation..…”
No crowds today, though, and with five turns still to go it’s time to take on more energy, the final flapjack disappears, and I relentlessly continue to turn the pedals. Nearly there. Disappointingly the views for the last 3km are hidden behind hotel and apartment block buildings, and there’s a marked increase in traffic and cars parked on the road-side.
Two turns to go, then one to go, and all of a sudden the last turn is passed and within a kilometre I’m on the run in to the main street of the resort, dodging cars, pedestrians and negotiating a couple of roundabouts. There’s a nasty little 8% kick just at the end, and a crowd of loitering cyclists mark the finish point. It’s next to a car park and is not a pretty finish, but that doesn’t matter when you’ve just cycled up Alpe D’Huez!
“I Still Haven’t Found What I’m Looking For…….”
After a brief warm down I look down at the screen and say goodbye to the Alps and Bono, it’s time to switch off. Unclipping and dismounting, the bike goes back on its wall mount, and the Tacx turbo is put away for another day. Stepping out of the garage into the North Yorkshire rain is another world.
It feels like a great achievement, ‘climbing’ 1200m in under 14km. It’s a climb to savour and to do again, maybe for real in the future, and preferably when it’s not raining…
Getting There
L’Alpe D’Huez by Tacx. Tacx is part of Garmin, and they supply a vast array of filmed rides from around the world for users of their smart turbos. You can ride alone, with friends, in virtual group rides or even train alongside World Tour professionals.
Refreshment Stops
There’s nowhere to stop on a turbo, so take all you need with you!
Course records
- The fastest time for the climb is 36:55, set by Marco Pantini in 1997.
- Tom Pidcock’s time was 41:54 in the 2022 TdF.
- Fastest time in my garage is 107:23 in 2023.
Image: Getty Images
